The only adjective that - and even then inadequately - describes her is ‘majestic’. Something in the way she moves, I guess. Seeing your reflection in the blue-violet of her eyes will send a rush through your veins, your heart will thump harder and you’ll find yourself hyperventilating, no matter what your level of experience on SCUBA.

She recognizes divers and makes her pick as to the partner she will have on the (sea) floor for the day’s dance. She’ll pivot and hover and gently hold out a flipper or lean on your shoulder. She’s Isabel - at least I call her so. Others call her Terry the Turtle but I personally feel Isabel is more suited to her beauty and grace. She’s a loggerhead turtle and a big one.

Probably brought to our shores here in Tenerife by a late summer storm, found a haven on a small wreck, shares her abode with several morays (green, yellow, ‘pintadas’, ‘negras’), an octopus, huge trumpet fish and a virtual cloud of smaller fish. Isabel is used to our company, can hear the zodiac, waits for the anchor to drop and then sends out her escort, a whole troop of rays, to guide the ‘bubble makers’ to her kingdom. She winks for the cameraman, tugs at my fins, regally accepts a sardine or two as homage to her beauty. Diving with Isabel is a unique experience, she’ll get into your blood and you’ll want to repeat the experience over and over again. 36 minutes at 20 metres will cost you a good 20 or more hours of saturation but every second of it is worth it.

I think I’m falling in love (so does my partner: she keeps pointing out that Isabel is a reptile!) I long for the next booking that will allow me to descend once more and meet my Isabel, to cavort surrounded by friendly rays and curious ‘fulas’, weightless and smiling throughout the dive. You’ve got to visit El Acuario (the aquarium) in South Tenerife to believe it. Take my word!